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Entries in How Did I Get Here? (3)

Sunday
Sep132009

How I Met My Husband

This is Part III in the "How Did I Get Here?" series. See Part I and Part II.

I met my husband in a pub in London. The thing is, I wasn’t supposed to be anywhere near the area of Holland Park, it just kind of happened that way.

My first week in London was a whirlwind. By complete chance, my good friend Catie was in town on business. I stayed in her Leicester Square 5-star hotel, whizzed around in limos, saw a West End show, and we clubbed to our hearts content.

When Catie left, I needed to move to another area of London. I had already picked out a hostel that wasn’t too far away. There was a problem though, neither my cabbie nor I could find it in my guidebook.

It was after midnight and the cabbie and I improvised. We found a hostel in Holland Park that was still open.

The next day I found the closest pub to my new hostel, The Rat and Parrot. I sat down at a table to write in my journal and this old man kept talking to me about the Grand National. He wouldn’t stop!

The barman, Brendon, came over to save me. He asked me if I’d like to come over and sit at the bar with some of the regulars. Brendon introduced me to Colin and Andy, workmates who were staying at the B & B across the street from the pub.

I call this picture, which was taken that last weekend at the Bournemouth Pier, "Cheeky Andy."Colin was in his 60s and I figured Andy was pushing 40. I found out later that Andy was actually 31. We talked about my travels and the other destinations on my itinerary. I mocked them for drinking Guinness Extra Cold™.

The next night, I returned to the pub and was quickly waved over by one of the other bartenders, “your mates are over here,” she said. So, I went back to my new friends in the corner of the bar.

Andy was playing pool and didn’t give me the time of day. I guess now we would say that he just wasn’t that into me. His mate Colin couldn’t figure it out, “I don’t understand why Andy isn’t asking you out,” he said. “Me neither," I harrumphed.

I said my goodbyes to my friends at the end of the night; I was leaving for Dublin the next morning. Brendon, the barman, told me to come back to the pub when I returned to London, even offering me a free place to stay.

My travels took me to Dublin, Glasgow, Inverness, Edinburgh, Manchester, and Liverpool.

From Liverpool, I was headed to Cardiff for a few days. However, it was Easter weekend and all the hostels were booked. I changed my plans and headed back to London, this time staying in Camden Town.

Sitting in a pub in Camden, I couldn’t stop thinking that I should go back to Holland Park. I mean, I already had friends there. I was also running out of money and remembered that Brendon, besides giving me free beer, also promised me a free place to stay if I needed it.

This is one of the first pictures I have of us together, at Stonehenge.I headed back to Holland Park on a Saturday night. I saw Brendon and met two more of Andy’s workmates, Bart and Matty, who are brothers from Manchester. I also began staying on the floor in Brendon’s flat above the pub.

On Saturday night I asked Bart and Matty, “Where’s Andy?” They told me he went back to Bournemouth for Easter and wouldn’t be back until Tuesday.

On Sunday night I asked Bart and Matty, “When is Andy coming back?” “We told you yesterday that he isn’t back until Tuesday,” growled the Mancunian brothers.

On Monday night I asked Bart and Matty, “Is Andy back yet?”

I’m not sure where this new found obsession came from but suddenly I was very interested in seeing Andy.

Finally, Tuesday came. I was perched at a table and saw Andy and Colin walking up the path to the pub. I’m not sure if it was embarrassment or shyness but I ducked my head and hoped they wouldn’t notice me.

It also dawned on me at this time that Bart and Matty would have had all day to tell Andy about my stalker-like questions.

They sat on the other side of the pub, Andy behind a pillar and Colin within my sight. A few minutes later, I looked over again. They had switched seats! Andy caught my eye and waved me over.

We talked nonstop until closing time. Andy asked if I wanted to go across to his B & B where he had 3 beds in his room. Surely, he said, that must be better than sleeping on the floor. Oh, and I'm pretty sure he winked.

He told me that Brendon had “claimed” me and that was why he didn’t pay much attention to me those first few days that we met. I was “claimed"? What the heck century is this? Is that like calling shotgun?

We talked until 4 or 5 in the morning. We talked about things that you don’t normally talk about when you’re just getting to know someone. We told each other things that would usually make the opposite sex run in the other direction. Neither of us were running. He also asked me to go to Bournemouth with him that weekend.

I told Andy that my Grandma wasn’t well—that she was dying—and that I might have to go home at a moments notice. I might need to get to a train station quickly. He said he’d have none of that and he’d drive me to Heathrow, if need be.

My Grandma had a stroke in 2001 and never really recovered. She was an awesome woman who accomplished more in a day than I could ever dream of. The day before her stroke, at 79 years old, she mowed her own lawn. It was difficult watching her go from being so independent to not being able to walk or communicate. I can’t even imagine how she must have felt being trapped in a body that clearly wasn’t listening to her brain.

Still, when I told her about my trip and showed her the places I would be going, she was so happy for me. She smiled and cried all at once.

On Wednesday, I had to tell Brendon about Andy and move my belongings across the street to the B & B. My free supply of beer stopped and Brendon wouldn’t even make eye contact with Andy.

Friday arrived and Andy had to work until 1pm before we could head to his home in Bournemouth. I had a few hours on my hands and went to the internet café on Kensington High Street.

I checked my email and found out that my Grandma had passed away the day before. I immediately logged into the British Airways website to see my flight options.

I had already missed the Friday flight. I could skip my trip to Bournemouth with Andy and fly out on Saturday or I could fly on Sunday.

I left the internet café and walked through Holland Park. I cried, sitting by myself in the middle of the park.

I waited for Andy to get back from work. The minutes ticked by very slowly. He opened the door to the room all bouncy and excited until he saw my face. I told him that my Grandma had died and he asked me what I wanted to do.

“We’re going to Bournemouth,” I said. I had already thought about what my Grandma would have wanted me to do. She wouldn’t have wanted me to miss out on the end of my adventure.

 I decided I would stay in Bournemouth and fly home on Sunday, two days before I was scheduled to arrive home. I’d be able to make it to the funeral home for the visitation and to the funeral on Monday.

If I didn’t spend those two days in Bournemouth, Andy and I would have never happened. And, I do believe that my Grandma was looking over me, guiding me.

My Dad picked me up from the airport on Sunday and we drove straight to the funeral home. We got out of the car and were walking towards the door when I stopped. I looked at my Dad and said, “I think I found you a son-in-law.”

Sunday
Aug302009

The Most Expensive Pub Crawl: UK & Dublin

It’s difficult to talk about England, Ireland, and Scotland without mentioning pubs. It’s a part of their history and culture. So, this week in the "How Did I Get Here?" series I’m talking about the pubs I visited on my 5-week journey throughout the British Isles.

The Curlew in Dorset, England.In 32 days I visited 46 pubs in 8 different cities. It should be noted that I went to many of these pubs more than once. This became the most expensive pub crawl ever. This wasn’t my intention at the start of my vacation but it truly is what made my trip so memorable.

Pubs throughout the UK and Ireland are not just a place where you stop in for a pint. They are the town square. You meet old friends and new, share stories, debate, and support your local teams. Even though pubs and pub culture is slowly dying, it is still the heart of the cities and towns that they occupy.

Greyfriars Bobby's Bar in Edinbugh.I was a single woman travelling alone and I can tell you I met some characters. I met 71 people on my trip, only 13 of them were woman, and almost all of them I met in pubs. I should mention that I’m an old man magnet, which was fine with me because they had some of the best stories.

Here is my “best of” list for the pubs I visited on this trip:

  • Best Pub/Bar name: The Nice and Sleazy, Glasgow. This technically is more of a bar than a pub but what a great name! They are known for their live music. Glasgow was the only city I got lost in on my tour of the British Isles.
  • Best Bartenders: The Foggy Dew, Dublin. These guys took very good care of me and I would check in with them once a day. They kept me away from the weirdos and even gave me a Foggy Dew t-shirt on my last night in Dublin. Which I somehow lost before I made it back to my hostel.
  • Most difficult pub name to pronounce: Uisge Beatha, Glasgow. Pronounced "oos-ga BAY-uh," this place is known for it's whisky and the bartenders don kilts. I met a lovely man named Angus there who shared his knowledge of Glasgow with me.
  • Best story behind the name of a pub: Greyfriars Bobby's Bar, Edinburgh. The story goes that John Gray, an Edinbugh policeman, had a beloved Skye Terrier named Bobby. In 1858, John Gray died and was buried in Greyfriars churchyard. His loyal dog Bobby visited his masters grave every day for 14 years, until his own death. They also have a fabulous ploughman's lunch.
  • Most ornate pub: The Philharmonic, Liverpool. This isn't your ordinary pub, it's very posh. Apparently, the men's bathroom is something to see. The bartender, Dave from Texas, offered to let me see it if I came back the next afternoon. I didn't get a chance to go back. According to my "Let's Go" guidebook, "John Lennon once said that the worst thing about being famous was not being able to get a quiet pint at the Phil."

Here is the full list of the pubs I visited on my amazing pub crawl.

By spending time in the pubs and immersing myself in pub culture I learned more about the cities I was visiting than I could from a guidebook. The locals are the best source of information about places to go and things to do.

There was only one time when I felt slightly insulted. I was at a pub in Inverness, Scotland when two locals came over to talk to me. They said that I must be "common." I responded with, "Um, no! Thank you very much, but I'm certainly not common." They were actually commenting on the fact that I was drinking a pint, a full pint.

This was the 3rd week of my trip and I had been drinking full pints everywhere I went. It was a bit late to find out that as a woman I should be drinking a half pint, a full pint is unlady-like. I explained to these "gentlemen" that I was not going to wait for service twice for the same amount of beer, lady-like or not.

Oh, there is one more memorable pub on my "best of" list:

The pub that changed my life: The Rat and Parrot, Holland Park, London. This pub doesn't exist anymore, it's now called The Mitre. But this is where I met my husband. Yes, I met my husband in a pub in London. 

This is The Rat and Parrot pub in Holland Park, London. This is where I met my husband.The series of events that led me to finding this pub, coupled with the difficulties my now-husband and me had in getting to know each other, are quite astounding. It may make you believe in fate. Or some other fantastic occurrence.

Come back next Monday for the full story of how I met my husband.

Read Part I: How Did I Get Here?

Read Part III: How I Met My Husband

Monday
Aug242009

How Did I Get Here?

Well, before I can tell you how I got here you need to know how I got there.

On Loch Ness in Scotland.I remember sitting in the Berry Terminal at Detroit Metro Airport and seeing the sign in the departure lounge that said London. British Airways flight 202, Detroit Metro to London Heathrow. "This is my flight. I’m actually going abroad!"

The terminal looked like it should be in Beirut. I mean, the duty free shop wasn’t even open. Actually, nothing was open and it looked like this terminal hadn’t been used in years. My flight was the one lonely flight leaving the terminal. It was a ghost town.

Trinity College, DublinBut each time I looked up at that sign, I smiled. “I’m on my way to London! Me. I’m going to the UK for 5 weeks.” Seriously? Even though I was 33, I felt like a giddy schoolgirl going on her first date. How did this happen? How did I get here?

I moved from Chicago to metro Detroit in September of 1999. And, as I mentioned before, I didn’t really get out of my circle. Bloomfield, Troy, Birmingham, Bloomfield, Troy, Birmingham.

In early December of 2002, I talked with some of my friends about this. Or, actually, they told me that I don’t really go anywhere. I was in a rut.

Then I went to a lavish Christmas party. At the party there was a Motown band, Santa Claus, Suzy Snowflake, and psychics. Actually, there were four psychics offering readings.

I got a reading from all four of the psychics. Two of them mentioned my lack of going anywhere, that I didn’t venture far from home. I know, they could have said this to anyone, but they said it to me. And I was already thinking it myself.

The last nudge I needed happened on New Years Eve 2002. An older friend of mine, who didn’t know me very well, also mentioned that I should travel. Of course, he meant New York City, but it put the wheels in motion.

The next day I made my New Years Resolution for 2003: I needed to go somewhere. I immediately started researching online. I had decided to go to the UK & Dublin for 3 weeks. There were so many cities I wanted to see and so much I wanted to experience, I didn’t know if I would ever get to do this again. This was a once in a lifetime trip.

Picadilly Circus, LondonI finally figured out that I couldn’t fit all of my chosen destinations into 3 weeks. "Ok, maybe I’ll go for 4 weeks," I thought. I told this to my parents and my dad's reaction was, “Your life is a vacation! Why do you need a 4 week vacation?” That sealed my fate.

I went back to the computer and bought the ticket. Five weeks it is, then!

That was January 16, 2003. My trip was scheduled for March 25 to April 29th. It may take me forever to make a decision but when I do, I make it happen.

I looked at that sign that said London one last time before boarding the plane. I still couldn’t believe that I was going on this fantastic vacation.

What I didn’t realize then was that any decision you make, whether big or small, can change the course of your life.

I didn’t know that I would never see my Grandma alive again. Or, that I would meet the man I would fall in love with and eventually marry. The course of my life changed as soon as I stepped on that plane.

Read Part II in this series: The Most Expensive Pub Crawl: UK & Dublin

Read Part III in this series: How I Met My Husband